奢侈品巨头分道扬镳，只有利益是永恒-pg电子游戏

【行业新闻】

今年5月，意大利奢侈品牌华伦天奴(valentino)失去了其独家香水业务，令西班牙美容巨头普伊格(puig)遭受又一次重大打击:意大利奢侈品集团普拉达(prada)也停止了与普伊格(puig)续签的15年香水特许经营协议，该协议将于明年年底到期。

据一位知情人士透露，普拉达选择不续约的原因之一是其香水的销量低于预期。该品牌的香水业务目前每年的销售额约为1亿欧元，远低于2003年puig获得普拉达(prada)独家香水许可证时承诺的2亿欧元。
2017年，普格的总销售额为19.4亿欧元，同比增长8.6%。在去年的财务报告中，puig说prada的香水销售状况良好，这对香水部门的销售增长做出了很大的贡献。但奢侈品牌的独家经销权不断丧失，让许多人怀疑，他能否在未来继续他目前的言论。华伦天奴独家香水授权每年可为puig带来7000万欧元的收入。
puig的第三代继承者marcpuig说，随着电子商务的兴起，香水市场发生了变化，这对这个集团来说是一个巨大的挑战。有消息称，marcpuig可能是家族中最后一个经营这家公司的成员，并在2020年左右离开puig这家拥有104年历史的西班牙美容集团。
今年5月，法国化妆品巨头欧莱雅(loreal l’oreal group)从普格(puig)手中接过华伦天奴(valentino)的独家香水授权，成为美国化妆品集团cotiprada香水业务下一个授权pg电子游戏的合作伙伴的热门人选。
如今，puig拥有的时尚品牌包括ninarcicarolinaherrerajeanpaulgaultier和pacorabann，但成衣和高级定制服装的年销售额还不到puig总销售额的10%。
为了扩大品牌组合的多样性，puig也采取了一些措施。上个月，puig收购了比利时设计师drivannoten的多数股权，此举被视为puig进一步进军时尚产业的野心的一个标志。2013年，drivannoten与parfumfredermall——雅诗兰黛公司的子公司合作推出了同名香水，并取得了巨大的胜利。
奢侈品牌通常许可他们的香水和化妆品业务的专业生产厂家,但是授权方的意见和创意团队的授权方,水的设计和营销并不总是相同的,这是相当普遍的两党分歧在品牌形象建设。因此，一些奢侈品牌会选择经营自己的化妆品和香水业务，比如迪奥和香奈儿，但独立经营也会带来相应的风险。2012年，伯贝里将其香水和美容业务变成了一项直接业务，支付巨额赔偿金，并从长期pg电子游戏的合作伙伴interparfum手中回购了品牌许可。但据该公司去年的年报显示，四年后，该公司将其香水和化妆品专卖权以1.6亿美元的价格卖给了美国化妆品巨头cotiburberri。ykk拉链在这个过程中，它摧毁了价值超过1000万英镑的过期香水和美容产品。

spanish beauty giant puig has suffered another major blow after losing its exclusive perfume business to italian luxury brand valentino in may: prada, the italian luxury group, has also stopped renewing a 15-year perfume franchise agreement with puig that expires at the end of next year.

one reason prada chose not to renew the deal, according to a person familiar with the matter, was that sales of its perfume fell short of expectations. the brand's perfume business now sells about 100 million euros a year, a far cry from the 200 million euros it promised when puig won prada's exclusive perfume license in 2003.
in 2017, puig's total sales volume was 1.94 billion euros, up 8.6% year on year. in last year's financial report, puig said that prada's perfume sales are in good condition, which has made a great contribution to the sales growth of the perfume department. but the steady loss of exclusive rights to luxury brands has led many to question whether he can continue his current rhetoric in the future. valentino exclusive perfume authorization can bring 70 million euros of revenue to puig every year.
marcpuig, puig's third-generation successor, says that with the rise of e-commerce, the perfume market has changed, posing a great challenge for the group. marcpuig is likely to be the last member of the family to run the company and leave puig, the spanish beauty group's 104-year-old family business, around 2020, sources said.
in may, french cosmetics giant loreal l 'oreal group, which took over valentino's exclusive perfume authorization from puig, and a popular candidate for the next authorized partner in the us cosmetics group cotiprada perfume business, which has had exclusive authorization from miumiu since 2013.
today, puig owns fashion brands including ninariccicarolinaherrerajeanpaulgaultier and pacorabann but ready-to-wear and haute couture clothing than annual sales accounted for less than 10% of total sales perfume remains puig sales absolute main force.
in order to expand the diversity of brand portfolio, puig has also taken a number of measures. last month, puig bought a majority stake in belgian designer drivannoten, in a move that was seen as a sign of puig's ambitions to move further into the fashion industry. in 2013, drivannoten teamed up with parfumfredermall, a subsidiary of esteelauder esteelauder esteelauder group, to launch its namesake perfume, which won a huge victory.
luxury brands usually license their perfume and cosmetics business to professional manufacturers, but the opinions of the authorized party and the creative team of the authorized party, the design and marketing of perfume are not always the same, and it is quite common for the two parties to have disagreements on brand image building. therefore, some luxury brands will choose to operate their own cosmetics and perfume businesses, such as dior and chanel, but independent operation will also bring corresponding risks. in 2012, burberri turned its perfume and beauty business into a direct business, paying huge damages and buying back the brand license from its longtime partner, interparfum. but four years later, it sold its perfume and make-up exclusive rights to us cosmetics giant cotiburberri for us $160 million, according to its annual report last year. in the process, it destroyed more than 10 million pounds worth of outdated perfume and beauty products.