zara成功五大秘诀之一:坚决不使用ykk拉链等品牌拉链
【行业新闻】
zara在20年前引入了“快速时尚”的概念。
arteixo是西班牙西北部的一个小镇,靠近太平洋,被渔村环绕。在市中心,一座玻璃建筑坐落在一片绿色的大草坪上。这是zara的总部。zara在大约20年前就引入了“快时尚”的概念,并在那之后开发了一个高度集中的设计、生产和销售系统,这个系统经常被研究,但很少被复制。这座建筑的官方名称是“cube”。它是zara的“中心”。
速度和响应能力比成本更重要
“cube”是zara时尚帝国的总部,建立在一个非传统的概念之上:速度和反应能力比成本更重要。zara以其小批量和快速的新品发布而闻名。商店经理每周两次准时下订单,新衣服每周两次准时送到商店。为了实现这一目标,zara对制造过程的控制超过了大多数零售商:大约一半的服装是在西班牙或邻国生产的。对zara来说,供应链就是竞争优势。
2。zara成功的秘诀是集中化
zara在全球的扩张可能最终会考验其以伊比利亚半岛为基础的生态系统。西班牙是它最大的市场。但在2013年,zara在中国的门店数量超过了法国(142家),使中国成为其第二大市场。所有零售商在中国的扩张都面临挑战。这家西班牙服装生产商在中国可能会面临一个独特的两难境地,在中国,zara是一家没有本土业务的全球性公司。
“他们成功的秘诀是集中的,”洛杉矶加州大学洛杉矶分校安德森商学院的副教授说,“他们将能够以一种非常协调的方式做出决定。”zara控制altahoe库存的能力是其商业模式的关键部分。“一旦他们决定本地化并建立两个中心——西班牙和中国,zara将完全不同。”卡罗尔说。
3所示。“cube”在86个国家拥有1770家门店
立方体外面是公司的主要配送中心,面积超过46万平方米。该公司在86个国家的1770家门店每年生产约4.5亿件产品。据zara透露,大约有1.5亿件衣服在该中心进行了测试和分类。无论是在葡萄牙、摩洛哥、中国还是孟加拉国生产的衬衫,在运往商店之前都要先运往西班牙。
在配送中心外面是11家zara的工厂。这些工厂生产的每一件衬衫、针织品和裙装都通过自动地下通道直接送到配送中心。这条赛道将近200公里长。附近的加利西亚也点缀着zara的分包商。
时尚使商品更畅销
77岁的阿曼西奥•奥尔特加(amancio ortega)是全球第三大富豪,他在2011年之前一直担任inditex的董事长。inditex也拥有另外7个品牌,它已成为全球最大的服装零售商。2012年,该公司从旗下的6009家门店销售了近160亿欧元(合214亿美元)。zara的销售额为105亿欧元。inditex说,2013年,该公司开设了400多家门店,其中包括大约110家zara门店。该公司预计2014年将开设至少相同数量的门店。
奥尔特加(ortega)的办公桌仍摆在这个立方体中最大的房间前,那里有设计师、买家、规划师和营销人员。有关哪些产品卖得好,哪些产品卖得不好的信息来自世界各地的商店经理。根据信息迅速调整服装设计师,可以在一定的外套下购买手更多的订单(但不是太多的独特的东西出售),规划师可以决定哪些商品将从商店中移除。
zara在西班牙、葡萄牙、摩洛哥和土耳其的工厂生产最新的时装。据zara说,这些工厂生产了大约一半的库存。它的基本t恤、针织品和其他产品都是从亚洲的工厂订购的,那里的劳动力成本通常较低,按照传统的时间表(大约提前6个月),然后运往西班牙。
zara的管理人员一直在投资高科技设备和额外产能,以使他们的工厂能够应对生产的突然增加或变化——很少有亚洲制造商能够做到这一点。哈佛商学院(harvard business school)对zara的案例研究显示,在时装季开始前,一般的零售商都会订购至少80%即将售出的服装。但zara的设计中只有50%是提前完成的。改变不会破坏系统;这是它的一部分。
新产品一夜之间就被装进卡车,直接送到商店或机场。卡车和飞机按照既定时间表运行,并在48小时内将衣物送到大多数商店。
5。没有任何折扣或广告
zara可以负担得起额外的劳动力和运输成本,因为它不需要像竞争对手那样提供很大的折扣
zara introduced the concept of "fast fashion" 20 years ago
speed and responsiveness are more important than cost
"cube" is the headquarters of zara's fashion empire, built on an unconventional concept: speed and responsiveness matter more than cost. zara is known for its small volume and rapid store launches. store managers place orders on time twice a week, and new clothes are delivered to stores on time twice a week. to achieve this, zara controls the manufacturing process more than most retailers: about half of its clothing is made in spain or in neighbouring countries. for zara, the supply chain is its competitive advantage.
2. the secret of zara's success is centralization
zara's global expansion may ultimately test its ecosystem based on the iberian peninsula. spain has been its biggest market. but in 2013, zara surpassed france in the number of stores in china (142), making china its second-largest market. all retailers face challenges in expanding in china. the spanish clothing maker may face a unique dilemma in china, where zara is a global company with no local operations.
"the secret of their success is centralized," associate professor at ucla's anderson school of management, a business consultant in zara's felipe carol said, "they will be able to make decisions in a very coordinated way." zara's ability to control inventory in altahoe is a key part of its business model. "once they decide to localize and set up two hubs, spain and china, it's going to be completely different zara." carol said.
3. "cube" has 1,770 stores in 86 countries
outside the cube is the company's main distribution center, which covers more than 460,000 square meters. the company makes about 450 million products a year for its 1,770 stores in 86 countries. according to zara, about 150 million pieces of clothing are tested and classified at the center. whether a shirt is made in portugal, morocco, china or bangladesh, it is shipped to spain before being shipped to stores.
outside the distribution center are 11 zara factories. each of the shirts, knitwear and skirt suits produced by these factories is delivered directly to the distribution center via automated underground tracks. the track is nearly 200 kilometers long. nearby galicia is dotted with zara subcontractors.
fashion makes goods sell better
amancio ortega, 77, the world's third-richest man, was chairman of inditex, the company he built around zara, until 2011. inditex, which also owns seven other brands, has become the world's largest clothing retailer. in 2012, the company sold nearly 16 billion euros ($21.4 billion) from its 6009 stores. zara accounts for 10.5 billion euros. inditex said it opened more than 400 stores in 2013, including about 110 zara stores. the company expects to open at least as many stores in 2014.
mr. ortega's desk is still in front of the biggest room in the cube, with designers, buyers, planners and marketers. information about which products are selling well and which are not selling well comes from store managers around the world. quickly adjust clothing designers on the basis of the information, can buy a hand under a certain coat more orders (but not too much of something unique to sell), planners can decide which goods will be removed from the store.
zara manufactures the latest fashions in its factories in spain and portugal, morocco and turkey. the factories make about half of zara's inventory, according to the company. its basic t-shirts, knitwear and other products are ordered from factories in asia, where labor costs are usually lower, on a traditional schedule (about six months in advance) and shipped to spain.
zara's managers have been investing in high-tech equipment and extra capacity to allow their factories to cope with sudden increases or changes in production -- something few asian manufacturers have been able to do. the harvard business school case study of zara shows that by the beginning of the season, the average retailer had placed orders for at least 80 percent of the clothes that were about to be sold. but only 50% of zara's designs come that far in advance. change does not disrupt the system; it is part of it.
the new products were packed overnight in trucks and sent directly to stores or airports. the trucks and planes operate on established schedules and deliver clothing to most stores within 48 hours.
5. no discount or advertising
zara can afford the extra labor and transportation costs because it doesn't have to offer a big discount like its competitors. it doesn't advertise. according to the harvard case study, the average zara clothing price is 15% off the full price, while the industry average is 60% to 70% off. unsold goods account for less than 10 per cent of its inventory, compared with an industry average of 17 to 20 per cent. "zara knows they can spend money on other things if they don't have to offer that much discount," says karla feldos, one of the authors of the harvard study. they can see the benefits of this certainty and pace in the supply chain.
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